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Simply Me
Bernat
Red Heart
How To
Follow this guide to create your Bobble Knit Pillow.
Find the project you want to start with (and save all the ones you want to try next to your wishlist).
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This Bobble Knit Pillow is made with Bernat Roving to create wonderful stitch definition. Bernat Roving come in a palette of tranquil hues to choose from.Now get your pattern to have at the ready while we walk you through step-by-step!
Follow along to learn how to knit your own pillow.
0:00 Intro00:07 How to make a Slip Knot00:44 How to make a Knit Cast On02:06 How to make a Garter Stitch - Row 103:26 How to knit a bobble08:29 Rows 2-408:50 Row 513:05 Back - Row 114:30 Back - Row 217:03 How to Cast off
Add or remove bobbles to change the look of the pillow or create a set with varying numbers.
Need a little extra help? The diagrams and videos below help break down each individual technique, so you can master your new-found knit skills.
A slip knot is the starting point for just about everything you'll do in knitting. It is also the basis for all casting on methods.
Make a circle with yarn or thread.
Pull a loop through the circle.
Insert the needle into the loop.
Pull the loop gently and evenly to tighten and slide the knot up to the needle.
Broken down in very simple terms, knitting is just a matter of transferring loops from one needle to another. To get started, you'll need to put loops on one needle, and that process of creating loops is called casting on.
There are several methods of casting on. Each has a unique purpose and produces a different edge. Try different methods to find the one most comfortable and suitable for your project. Two common cast-on methods are the long-tail cast on and the backwards loop cast on.
Unless otherwise noted, the initial slip knot you use to start casting on counts as a stitch in the pattern. So if the pattern requires you to cast on 100 stitches, the slip knot would be stitch 1 and then you would cast on an additional 99 stitches.
When casting on, do not pull the yarn too tightly against the needle. When you start knitting you will be inserting one needle into the stitch you cast onto the other needle. If the cast-on stitches are too tight this process can become difficult and frustrating.
With the yarn at the front of the work, insert the tip of the right needle from right to left through the front of the first stitch on the left needle.
Wrap the yarn from the right to left under the tip of the right needle.
Pull the yarn back through the stitch, forming a loop on the right needle.
Slide the stitch off the left needle.
To purl the entire row, repeat Steps 1-4 until all of the stitches are transferred to the right needle.
Turn the work and place the needle with the stitches on it in the left hand to start the next row.
Purling every row is also considered garter stitch and makes ridges on both sides of the knitted fabric. Purling is most often used with knit stitches.
The simplest method of decreasing is to simply knit or purl two stitches together as one. This is known as a knit two together (k2tog) or purl two together (p2tog). A k2tog will lean to the right, while the slip, slip, knit (ssk), a similar decrease, will lean to the left. Designers will specify which decrease to use, since the different directions can be design elements in the pattern.
Knit two together (k2tog): On a knit row, insert the tip of the right needle from left to right through two stitches instead of one stitch, then knit them together as one stitch.
Purl two together (p2tog): On a purl row, insert the tip of the right needle from right to left through two stitches instead of one stitch, then purl them together as one stitch.
Knitting into the front and back of a stitch is one of the easiest and most common knit increases.
On a knit row, work into the front and back of the next stitch: knit into the stitch and before slipping it off the left needle, twist the right needle behind the left and knit the same stitch again through the back loop. Slide the original stitch off the left needle — there are now 2 stitches on the right needle made from the original one.
On a purl row, the method of increasing is similar. Purl into the front of the next stitch, then purl into the back of it before sliding it off of the left needle.
Casting off for right handers (also known as binding off) is the process of putting a finishing edge on a piece to prevent it from raveling. It can occur at the end of a straight piece where all stitches are cast off, or at the beginning of a row where a specific number of stitches are cast off, or within a row when making buttonholes or shaping a neck. It is important to work cast off stitches loosely, so that the finished edge will have as much give as the knitted piece.
Loosely knit the first two stitches onto the right needle. Insert the point of the left needle into the first stitch.
Pass this first stitch over the second stitch and off the right needle. One stitch remains on the right needle.
Knit the next stitch and repeat Step 2; repeat across all stitches.
Cast off all of the 15 stitches until 1 stitch remains on the right needle and the left needle is empty. Cut the yarn and draw the end through the remaining stitch.
This lesson is for casting off in knit for right handers. (You can find the lesson for casting off for left-handers here.) In most instances, however, you should cast off in the stitches that you have been working in. For example, if you have been purling, cast off by working each stitch in purl. If you have been working in ribbing, cast off by keeping the sequence of knit and purl.
Weave in ends securely before blocking pieces or sewing seams. Securely woven ends will not come loose with wear or washing. It's best to work in ends as invisibly as possible.
There are multiple options for yarn needles to use to weave in your ends: straight steel, straight plastic, and bent-tip steel. Use whichever one you prefer.
A good method of weaving in ends is to run the end under several stitches, then reverse the direction and weave it back under several more stitches. Trim the end close to the work. Changing the directions keeps the yarn more secure.
Leave at least 6" on the end to weave in securely. If you only weave the end under a couple of stitches it will not be secure. If your yarn is quite thick, you may want to leave extra length.
If you are working with multiple colors, for example in a striped pattern, keep the ends in the same color as you weave them in. Keeping them in their own color makes them more difficult to see.
If you are not sure if the end will be visible on your fabric when you weave it in, use a yarn needle that is a different color from your fabric. Thread the yarn needle through the stitches, but then check the opposite side before you pull the yarn through. If the yarn needle is extremely exposed, your tail will be as well.
If your tail is too short to weave in with a regular needle or too thick to fit into the eye, use a Susan Bates Finishing Needle. Finishing Needles have the eye all the way along the length of the needle, so it's easier to weave in short or extra thick tails.
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