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Red Heart
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Learn more about reading a pattern.Explore
Want to learn about a yarn? Look at the skein band or ball band on it! Keep reading this blog to learn how to read a skein band.
Follow along as we read a skein band! We're using Super Saver in our example. To start, position your yarn so the Red Heart logo is facing you.
The big red heart on the skein band tells you this is Red Heart Yarn! Underneath the Red Heart name the logo tells you that this particular skein is our Super Saver yarn.
Above the logo a line says that the yarn is worsted weight, or a 4 weight in the Craft Yarn Council yarn classification system that we use.
Underneath the heart you can see the small American flag in the left hand corner indicating that the yarn is Made in the USA. On the right-hand corner is the fact that Super Saver does not have dye lots in solid colors. You can see this written in English, French, and Spanish. To meet regulations the copy on the ball band must be in multiple languages.
Turn the skein slightly away from you so you can see the picture of the free pattern. Your picture may be different than the one in our example. One type of yarn may have the same pattern on all of the skein bands or it may have different patterns on different skein bands. Which pattern is on any particular skein of yarn is just due to chance.
At the top of the skein band in this shot you can see a red line where it gives the net weight and the yardage for this skein. In the US yarn is sold by weight, so this skein is 7 ounces or 198 grams. The yardage given is an estimate and is the least amount of yarn you will encounter in the skein; the actual amount may be more. Since yarn is sold by weight and not by yardage no two skeins of yarn will have the exact same yardage.
The picture shows the free pattern available on the inside of the ball band. This particular free pattern is for the Double-Sole Slippers; the picture has the pattern number superimposed on top of it. The white box to the left of the pattern picture has a crochet hook, so you can tell this is a crochet pattern. Other skein bands may have an image of crossed knitting needles to tell you that the free pattern is knit. The numbers printed in the white box indicate the size of the crochet hook (or knitting needles, for other patterns) used in the free pattern. This particular free pattern uses a 5.5mm [US I-9] crochet hook. Below the white box the number of skeins needed for the picture and the color shown in the picture are listed. This pattern uses 1 skein of 319 Cherry Red.
Social media logos are listed below the pattern information. If you go to YouTube, Facebook, or Twitter, you will be able to find Red Heart Yarns accounts.
Below the pattern picture is our website, then you get to the technical information: the manufacturing details of the yarn, our address, manufacturing and recycling information for the paper, and the importing information for our business in Mexico.
If you continue turning the skein you'll see a white sticker holding the ends of the skein band together. The sticker gives the name of the yarn color above the article number and the color number. For this skein the color is Cherry Red, the article number is E300, and the color is 0319. The other numbers show when it was manufactured. Super Saver does not have any dye lots in solid colors, but yarns that do have dye lots have the dye lot information also printed on the skein band. The bar code allows the skein to be identified and for you to buy it at the store.
If you turn it away from you again, underneath the "No Dye Lot" notice are the yarn information, gauge, and washing instructions.
The general laundry instructions and the fiber content of the yarn (100% acrylic) are listed next.
The next set of pictures shows you that this yarn is a skein, and that you can pull it from the center. For more details on this, please see our blog on the difference between balls and skeins of yarn. Now you're back at the beginning!
To look at the inside of the band, slide the band off of the skein. At the white sticker carefully pull so the band opens flat without ripping. The inside of the band has a written pattern for the image on the outside of the band. The pattern is given in French and English. You can also find the pattern on our website by searching the number that is shown on the picture.
What other questions do you have? Let us know in the comments!
Everyone talks about yarn weight — what does it mean? When we refer to yarn weight, we're not talking about the weight of the ball or skein. Instead, we're talking about how thick or thin yarn is.
Yarnspirations follows the Craft Yarn Council (CYC) Standard Yarn Weight System. In this system, yarn is divided into weights 0 to 7. The thinner the yarn, the smaller the number. For example, Aunt Lydia's Classic Crochet Thread Size 10 would count as a size 0 (Lace). Red Heart Super Saver, Caron One Pound and Bernat Super Value are all size 4 (Medium), and Bernat Plush Big is a size 7 (Jumbo).
Just because yarn is the same weight doesn't mean it is identical: Red Heart Super Saver, Caron One Pound, and Red Heart Soft all have a weight of 4, but they are slightly different sizes and have slightly different gauges. Each weight of yarn has a range of similar gauges.
Each of our yarns has the symbol for their weight on the ball band. You can search our yarn by weight on the website: click on "Yarn" in the top navigation bar, and then select the weight you need under the "Weight" column.
If you want to substitute yarn in a pattern, weight is one component. It is easiest to substitute between yarns of the same weight, such as using Red Heart Super Saver or Caron One Pound in a pattern. You will still need to check the pattern gauge, however, to make sure that the project you are making will turn out the correct size.
Lace weight yarn also known as fingering yarn and 10 count crochet thread is very thin yarn used for lacy projects such as doilies and lace shawls.
Super fine yarn may also work for lace projects since it is great for creating delicate garments. Super fine yarn is commonly used to make socks, shawls and baby items. Shop super fine yarns.
Fine yarn often referred to as Sport Weight yarn is also great for creating lightweight and delicate projects. It works well for making socks, heirloom garments and lightweight blanket.Shop sport fine yarns.
Light yarn is slightly thicker than a #2 Fine yarn, it is considered a lighter worsted weight yarn that’s great for making heavier, fine garments and baby items. Shop light (DK) yarns.
Medium weight yarns are often referred to as Aran or Worsted Weight yarn. Worsted weight yarn is the most frequently used yarn since it is easy to work with. It’s a great yarn for beginners and for those looking to make a variety of projects. Shop Medium weight or worsted weight yarns.
Bulky yarn or chunky yarn is almost twice as thick as worsted weight yarn and is great for making scarves, hats, sweaters, and blankets. Due to its thickness this yarn works up quickly when using large hooks or needles. Looking to make a project with a bulky yarn? Shop bulky yarns.
Super Bulky yarn or Roving yarn is thicker and works up quick! This kind of yarn is great for making warm and cozy sweaters, hats, and cowls. Shop super bulky yarns.
The thickest of yarns classified in the Yarn Weight Standards by the Craft Yarn Council. This yarn category was created to classify the trending super thick yarns which started to appear in the yarn world. These jumbo yarns are great for quickly making sturdy and large projects. Start stitching with jumbo yarns!
Every pattern either dictates the yarn you need to use to make the project or the yarn weight. This means that you have the option of making a project in the yarn you want by simply switching to a different yarn with the same weight originally called in the pattern. An important thing to note if you choose to switch out one yarn for another when working on a project is to make sure you create a gauge swatch. While most yarns within a yarn weight category are interchangeable not all yarns are identical that’s why it’s helpful to create a gauge swatch, so you can get a sense of the tension you’ll need to maintain in order to achieve the right amount of stitches per inch.
Yarnspirations follows the Craft Yarn Council (CYC) Standard Yarn Weight System. In this system, yarn is divided into weights 0 to 7. The thinner the yarn, the smaller the number. For example, Aunt Lydia's Classic Crochet Thread Size 10 would count as a size 0 (Lace). Red Heart Super Saver, Caron One Pound and Bernat Super Value are all size 4 (Medium), and Red Heart Grande and Bernat Mega Bulky is a size 7 (Jumbo).
When learning to crochet, it’s always best to start out with a solid understanding of the tools you’ll need to successfully take on this craft. Crochet hooks can come in an array of sizes and materials, while also having plenty of different styles to choose from. Below, we’ve created a guide to help you better understand the world of crochet hooks and help you pick the right one for your first project.
A crochet hook has a long slender handle with a hook at one end that helps pull yarn through loops and form crochet stitches. The stitches then pass from the throat of the hook onto the shaft. While all hooks have the same basic anatomy, there are subtle differences in shaping that can alter the way that yarn passes along the hook and how the hook navigates the stitches. The head of the hook can be either rounded or pointed; a rounded head can be ideal when working with a plied yarn that might be prone to splitting, whereas a pointed head can work well when you are crocheting a very dense fabric. Some hooks can also have different throats, which isthe part of the crochet hook just below the top of the actual hook. This can be either an in-line throat or a tapered throat. An in-line hook has more of a rigid decrease which tends to have a snug hold on the yarn, a tapered throat is smoother and allows the yarn to slip off more easily. Typically, a tapered hook is easier for a beginner to use as the yarn doesn’t slip off your hook as easily this means a tapered hook is also great to use when working with a finer weight yarn. While tapered hooks are suggested for beginners this doesn’t mean a beginner shouldn’t use an in-line hook, it’s always best to use whichever hook you feel most comfortable with.
Find tapered and in-line crochet hooks here.
Wooden Crochet Hooks
Wooden crochet hooks can be more expensive than metal or plastic hooks however, wooden crochet hooks are the smoothest crochet hooks and havea natural warmth to them. A cheaper alternative to traditional wooden crochet hooks is bamboo crochet hooks. These crochet hooks are lightweight and smooth while still having enough texture to prevent the yarn from slipping off your hook too easily. For these reasons bamboo crochet hooks are great for those just starting to crochet.
Find wooden crochet hooks here.
Metal Crochet Hooks
Metal crochet hooks are the smoothest crochet hooks out there, the yarn easily glides on and off the hook making for quick crocheting. With such glide to the yarn when crocheting with a metal crochet hook you will most often see more experienced crocheters use these hooks which much ease and comfort. However, beginners should not be intimidated by these crochet hooks as in some cases a beginner may find the smoothness makes it easier for them to achieve proper tension if they find themselves crocheting too tight. Most crochet hooks are made with aluminum and tend to be lightweight, although not as light as bamboo crochet hooks. In some cases, you will find smaller crochet hooks, reserved for thread crochet, are made of steel.
Find metal crochet hooks here.
Plastic Crochet Hooks
The most inexpensive type of crochet hooks, plastic crochet hooks are great for those just starting to crochet. They are the most lightweight type of crochet hook to start out with and have a slight texture to them, so they are not as smooth as metal crochet hooks. This lightweight crochet hook is great for working on large projects in bulky yarns as the hook barely adds any weight to your growing project and makes it easier to manipulate your stitches.
Find plastic crochet hooks here.
While crocheting can be a therapeutic hobby there is no denying that the same repetitive movements which bring such joy can also introduce hand fatigue. For those experiencing hand fatigue when crocheting or have chronic pain and are prone to repetitive strain injuries, an ergonomic crochet hook might be helpful in alleviating any discomfort or pain you are experiencing. Ergonomic crochet hooks can be bought in all three types of crochet hooks discussed above with either a tapered or in-line throat. Alternatively, you can turn your favorite hook into an ergonomic one. Grips are great for those crocheters out there who can’t bear to part with their favorite crochet hook as you can easily place these grips over existing hooks.
Find ergonomic crochet hooks here.
Tunisian Crochet
This type of crochet is different enough from traditional crochet as it requires a specific Tunisian crochet hook. Tunisian crochet is often referred to as Afghan crochet, this type of crochet requires an elongated crochet hook with a stopper on the end. Tunisian crochet combines crochet and knitting skills and creates wonderfully textured stitches resulting in dense and plush fabric, often mistaken as knitting.
Find Tunisian crochet hooks here.
Broomstick lace
This type of crochet work involves the use of a very large crochet hook, a large plastic crochet hook works just fine for broomstick lace crochet. Broomstick lace sometimes referred as jiffy lace or peacock eye crochet is a style of lace crochet from the 19th century. This type of lace crochet makes use of a larger sized crochet hookor dowel to create large eyelet motifs throughout your stitches, resulting in stunning lace crochet work.
Find broomstick crochet hooks here.
Your crochet hook size is determined by the yarn you are using, the gauge you want to achieve, and the type of stitch pattern you are working. All patterns and yarns will suggest the crochet hook size you will need to make a project or work with a specific yarn. This suggestion from both the pattern and yarn itself is a guide to help you obtain proper gauge. Gauge is the amount of crochet stitches you need to make per inch. This ensures that your tension is correct when making a project so that your finished project looks as intended. You can find yarn gauge and recommended crochet hook size on a yarn page or on a yarn’s label. These can be represented as symbols like the ones down below.
Find crochet hooks in a number of sizes here here.
If you’re looking to learn to crochet it can be useful to understand the two most common ways of holding your crochet hook. Neither is better than the other, however, it is helpful to know that there are different ways to hold your hook because it can help you feel more comfortable when crocheting.
Pencil Grip
As the name implies the pencil grip method of holding your hook is like how you would hold a pencil in your dominant hand. With the crochet hook facing you, your index finger and thumb will grip the hook while the rest of your fingers act as a support.
Knife Grip
The knife grip is like holding a knife when cutting your food. With the crochet hook facing you, your middle finger and thumb will grip the shaft of the hook while you place your index finger along the top.
The best thing to do when starting to crochet is to try both ways of holding your crochet hook so you can choose the grip that’s most comfortable for you. Often you will also find it easier to work new stitches if you simply adjust or change how you are holding your hook. The same can be done if you are experiencing fatigue or discomfort in your hands while crocheting. Check out our video tutorial below as we show you the two different ways to hold your crochet hook.
Prepare your stitching for success. Explore
There are no hard and fast rules about the best way to hold the hook and yarn. Choose whichever way you find the most comfortable.
Some people prefer the "pencil grip". The hook is held in the right hand as if holdinga pencil.
Some people prefer using the "knife grip". The hook is held in the right hand as if holding a dinner knife ready to cut.
To maintain the slight tension in the yarn necessary for easy, even stitches, you may find it helpful to wrap the yarn around the fingers of the hand opposite the one holding the hook. Try one of these ways or find another way that feels comfortable to you.
In the illustrations above, the left hand holds your crochet work and at the same time controls the tension of the yarn. The left-hand middle finger is used to manipulate the yarn, while the index finger and thumb hold on to the work.
Some people find it more comfortable to manipulate the yarn with the index finger and hold the project with their thumb and middle finger. While you're learning, if one way feels awkward, try another way until you find the one that suits you.
Make a circle with yarn or thread.
Pull a loop through the circle.
Insert the hook in the loop.
Pull gently and evenly to tighten the loop and slide the knot up to the hook. You want the loop to be able to move easily on the hook but be snug around it. Take care that the loop stays on the wider part of the hook and is not on the thumb rest or the narrow part near the head.
Wrap the yarn from back to front over the hook (or hold the yarn still and maneuver the hook). This movement of the yarn over the hook is used over and over again in crochet and is usually called "yarn over", abbreviated as "yoh".
Check out these stitches that use the yarn over hook movement:
Bobbles
Single crochet two together stitch (sc2tog) (also known as a single crochet decrease)
Double crochet back post (dcbp)
Double crochet front post (dcfp)
Almost all crochet begins with a foundation chain, which is a series of chain stitches beginning with a slip knot. You then work the first row of other stitches into the chain to start making crochet fabric. The foundation chain is also called a base chain or starting chain.
To work a foundation chain, start by making a slip knot.
Then chain as many stitches as the pattern calls for.
Next, start working stitches into the chain. You can use double crochets, or any combination the pattern tells you to use.
When working into the starting chain, you may work under one or two strands of chain loops as shown in the illustration. Either of these methods forms an even, firm bottom edge.
Some people like to work into the "bump" on the back of the chain. This forms an even, stretchy bottom edge that is ideal for garments. It also produces an edge that looks more similar to the final edge of your project, making it useful for projects where both ends are exposed, such as scarves.
Whichever method of working into the foundation you choose, be consistent. Work all the pieces of a project in the same manner.
Check out more stitches and tutorials. Explore
Single crochet is the most common basic crochet stitch that will result in fabric. It is abbreviated sc.
Insert the hook into the work (second chain from hook on the foundation chain,*yarn over and draw yarn through the work only.
Yarn over again and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook.
One single crochet made. Insert hook into next stitch; repeat from * in step 1.
Half double crochet is in between the height of single crochet and double crochet, and it is made using aspects of both. It is abbreviated hdc.
Yarn over and insert the hook into the work (third chain from hook on the starting chain).
* Yarn over and draw through pulling up a loop.
Yarn over again and pull yarn through all three loops on the hook.
One half-double crochet made. Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch; repeat from * in step 2.
Double crochet is a very common crochet stitch. It is taller than Read more. Half Double CrochetRead more.Half-double crochet, and is abbreviated dc.
Read more. Yarn over and insert the hook into the work (fourth chain from hook on starting chain).
* Yarn over and draw yarn through, pulling up a loop.
Yarn over and pull yarn through only the first two loops on the hook.
Yarn over and pull yarn through the last two loops on the hook.
One double crochet made. Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch; repeat from * in step 2.
Slip stitch is the shortest of all crochet stitches. Unlike other stitches, slip stitches are not often used on their own to produce a large piece fabric. The slip stitch is used for joining, shaping and, where necessary, to move the yarn to another part of the fabric for the next stage.
Insert the hook into the work as directed in the pattern. Yarn over and the pull yarn through the work and the loop on the hook in one movement.
When working into previous rows, yarn over and pull the yarn through both the work and the loop on the hook in one movement.
To join a chain ring with a slip stitch, insert the hook into the first chain, yarn over and pull the yarn through the work and the loop on the hook.
Slip stitches may be used to make stretchy crocheted ribbing.
To make ribbing, start by chaining for the width of the item, not the length. For example, if you are making a hat brim, you would crochet just a few stitches for the width of the brim, not the number of stitches needed to go all the way around your head.
Next, slip stitch into the back loop only of each chain across the row.Read more.
Chain one and turn at the end of therow.
Again, work into the back loop only of each stitch across the row, then chain one and turn. Repeat this row as many times as you would like to make the fabric the size you want.
Single crochet is the most common basic crochet stitch resulting in fabric. It is abbreviated sc.
Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, and draw a loop through (one sc worked up to the last step): 2 loops on hook.
Insert hook into next stitch.
Yarn over and draw a loop through (another sc worked up to last step): 3 loops on hook.
Yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook.
1 dec completed.
Double crochet is a very common crochet stitch. It is taller thansingle crochet and half double crochet, and is abbreviated dc.
Yarn over and insert the hook into the work (fourth chain from hook on starting chain)
Yarn over and draw yarn through, pulling up a loop.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 into next stitch (another dc worked up to last step).
Yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook.
To decrease any other stitch (hdc, tr, et cetera) work each stitch up to the last step then yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.
Work a double crochet increase in the same way you work a single crochet increase.
To increase the width of a basic crochet fabric, 2 or more stitches must be worked into 1 stitch at the point specified in the project instructions.
Read more.Single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, and longer stitches are all increased in the same manner.
There is no specific abbreviation for a crochet increase. Patterns will usually give instructions similar to "2 sc in the next sc", to indicate you will work two single crochet stitches in the next single crochet stitch, and thereby increase.
Work a single crochet into the specified stitch.
Work a second single crochet into the same stitch.
A treble crochet (sometimes called triple crochet) is taller than a double crochet and is made by working two yarn overs at the start of the stitch, instead of one yarn over as for double crochet. It is abbreviated tr.
Yarn over twice, insert the hook into the work (fifth chain from hook on the starting chain).
Yarn over again and pull yarn through the first two loops only on the hook.
Yarn over again and pull yarn through the next two loops only on the hook.
Yarn over again and pull yarn through the last two loops on the hook.
One treble made. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next stitch; repeat from * in step 2.
Most motifs are not worked in rows but are worked in rounds from the center out. Unless otherwise stated in the pattern instructions, do not turn the work between rounds but continue with the same side facing and treat this as the right side of the fabric.The center ring is usually formed by several chains joined together with a slip stitch to form a ring.
Insert the hook into the first chain made.
Make a slip stitch to join the chains into a ring.
At the beginning of each round, one or more chain(s) can be worked to match the height of the following stitches—this is equal to a turning chain. When working in double crochet, three starting chains are required.
The stitches of the first round are worked by inserting the hook into the empty circle space at the center of the ring. Sometimes the first round is worked into the first chain—the pattern will specify how to form the first round.
When each round is complete, insert the hook into the top of the chain or stitch at the beginning ofthe round and make a slip stitch to close the round.
When working the second and subsequent rounds, unless otherwise stated, insert the hook under the two top loops of the stitches in the previous round.
After joining the final round with a slip stitch, fasten off by cutting the yarn and drawing the end through. Pull gently to tighten and form a knot.
Crochet post stitches, where the stitch is worked around the post of the previous row instead of into the top of the stitch, are easy to learnand versatile to use. Post stitches can be used to make highly textured fabric, add unique decorative details and strengthen the functionality of various products such as hat brims. They are definitely a technique worth mastering.
When you crochet post stitches, you are crocheting the same types of stitches that you already know how to make, just placing them in a different location (which we'll cover in detail in the next section). The double crochet is a very common stitch to use for post stitches, for example. If you know how to dc, then you can make a dc post stitch. You just need to learn where to put it. In fact, you have two options: a front post double crochet (fpdc) or a back post double crochet (bpdc); both use the basic dc stitch as the foundation.
While the dc is by far the most common stitch used in post stitches, it's not the only one that you can use. Treble stitches are also common; you'll often see patterns calling for a front post treble crochet (fptr), for example. Shorter stitches are more difficult to use for post stitches, merely because of their placement, so it isn't common thatyou see a pattern call for single crochet (sc) or even half double crochet (hdc) post stitches, but it does happen, and it's certainly possible to make these stitches.
FPDC around DC
The reason that these stitches are called "post" stitches is because you crochet around the "post" of another stitch, meaning the body of that stitch. It's all about the location of where you crochet. Typically, when you crochet, you crochet into the loops at the top of the stitch from the row or round below the one in which you are working. You may crochet into both loops or into just the front loop or just the backloop; regardless, you are inserting your hook into a loop and working your stitch into that. However, with post stitches, you will be inserting your hook into an empty space, not a loop, and you will be working around the post of the stitch.
FPDC around SC
Note that you can crochet around various types of posts. Typically, patterns call for crocheting around the same type of stitch that you're making. So, if you're making a front post double crochet, it will be crocheted around a double crochet from the previous row. However, that's not always the case. Sometimes, you will be asked to make your post stitch around another type of stitch in the previous row. A good example of this is seen in the Front Post Double Crochet around Single Crochet Square in the Checkerboard Textures Throw Crochet Along.
There are two different directions you can go when you make post stitches, creating either "front post" or "back post" stitches. The difference is in the direction where you insert the hook around the post.
Front Post Crochet
When you work front post stitches, you will insert your hook from the front of your work to the back. If you are right-handed, you will be working right to left across the row, and you will insert your hook into the right side of the post that you want to work around and then back up on its left side. When you first insert your hook, the post that you want to crochet around will be sitting right in "front" of your hook, which is a good way to remember that this is front post crochet.
When you work back post stitches, you will insert your hook from the back of the work towards the front of the work. When you first insert your hook, the post that you want to crochet around will be siting in "back" of your hook.
How to Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Yarn over.
Insert your hook front-to-back through your work, so that the post you want to crochet around is in front of your hook.
Yarn over again and pull through. There will be three loops on your hook, just like there would at this stage of a normal double crochet.
Proceed as normal with your double crochet stitch: Yarn over and pull through the first two of the three loops on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops on the hook.
That's it; a double crochet worked around the front of the post.
How to Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)
Likewise, the back post double crochet is going to be exactly the same except for the placement of the stitch. Just to make sure we are clear, here are those instructions:
Insert your hook back-to-frontthrough your work, so that the post you want to crochet around is behind your hook.
That's your back post double crochet stitch.
TIP
You can find step-by-step photo tutorials for both fpdc and bpdc in our basketweave crochet guide.
How to Front Post Treble Crochet (fptr)
So, all the instructions for your stitch will be the same as normal, but you'll be placing the stitch around the post. Here are the written instructions for a front post double crochet stitch:
Increasing and Decreasing Post Stitches
Some patterns may call for you to increase or decrease your crochet post stitches. This might throw you for a loop at first, but just remember that you're doing the same thing as with a normal stitch, just placing it in a different location. So, if you were going to decrease in double crochet, you would dc around two stitches at the same time; decreasing around double crochet post stitches means that you dc around two post stitches at the same time. It's not as complicated as it sounds at first. My Hobby is Crochet has a great guide to decreasing in double crochet post stitches. Moogly offers a good video tutorial for increasing with post stitches.
Now that you know how to crochet post stitches, maybe you're thinking that they are kind of nifty but you're not sure what to use them for. Well, there are many ways that post stitches can be used. They create richer, denser, more textured fabric than traditional stitches. Some ofthe types of techniques that use post stitches include:
Vertical Ribbing
Cordial Coasters
When you alternate front post and back post stitches across the row (always crocheting front posts around front posts and back posts around back posts), you create a fabric with thick vertical ribbing. This is a two-sided fabric with ribs on both sides. It is richly textured and cushy, great for heavy blankets and cozy cushions and warm winter wear.
Basketweave Stitch
The basketweave stitch is created using front and back post stitches as well. The placement of the stitches (whether front or back) is alternated to create the desired basketweave pattern. Find complete details in our Ultimate Guide to Basketweave Crochet.
Crochet Cables
Crochet cables often rely on post stitches for the cabled texture that protrudes from one side of the fabric. In this case, stitches are worked back and forth across the same row so that the post stitches crisscross each other to create the beautiful cablework design. Learn more about crocheting cables from our "Learn a Stitch, Make a Crochet Cowl" tutorial for the Diamond Cables Cowl; this project uses front and back post treble crochet stitches. You can also learn more about crochet cables from this video with Kathleen Sams.
Crocodile Stitch
So far, what we have described are post stitches where one stitch is worked around each post. However, you can also work multiple stitches around each post. This can be done to increase (an example might be the use of the "front post double crochet two together" or fpdc2tog stitch). However, it is also done in specific techniques, such as the crocodile stitch, where post stitches are worked up and down to create the unique texture of this scaled design. Learn all about this from our Ultimate Beginner's Guide to Crocodile Crochet.
Shallow post stitches are made into the top section of the stitch, instead of around the post of the stitch. Learn more and see how the shallow post stitches are made with this instructional video from Marly Bird.
Learn different finishing techniques. Explore
To fasten off the yarn permanently, cut the yarn leaving an 8" end (longer if you need to sew pieces together). Pull the end of the yarn through the loop on the hook and pull gently to tighten.
Weave in ends securely before blocking pieces or sewing seams. Securely woven ends will not come loose with wear or washing. It's best to work in ends as invisibly as possible.
There are multiple options for yarn needles to use to weave in your ends: straight steel, straight plastic, and bent-tip steel. Use whichever one you prefer.
A good method of weaving in ends is to run the end under several stitches, then reverse the direction and weave it back under several more stitches. Trim the end close to the work. Changing the directions keeps the yarn more secure. Leave at least 4" on the end to weave in securely. If you only weave the end under a couple of stitches it will not be secure. If your yarn is quite thick, you may want to leave extra length.
Depending on the pattern, you may be able to start the process of weaving in your ends by laying the end along your fabric and working stitches around it as you go. This method is not a substitute for traditional weaving-in ends, as you will still need to reverse the direction, but it may begin the process. This method may not work as well when you are changing colors, as depending on the stitch pattern the tail of the old color may show through the stitches of the new color.
If you are working with multiple colors, for example in a striped pattern, keep the ends in the same color as you weave them in. Keeping them in their own color makes them more difficult to see.
If you are not sure if the end will be visible on your fabric when you weave it in, use a yarn needle that is a different color from your fabric. Thread the yarn needle through the stitches, but then check the opposite side before you pull the yarn through. If the yarn needle is extremely exposed, your tail will be as well.
If your tail is too short to weave in with a regular needle or too thick to fit into the eye, use a Susan Bates Finishing Needle. Finishing Needles have the eye all the way along the length of the needle, so it's easier to weave in short or extra-thick tails.
Seaming crochet simply means joining two or more pieces of crochet fabric together. This is frequently done when a project, such as a crochet blanket, is made in motifs; you seam together all of the motifs to create the finished project. Crochet seaming is also important when making crochet clothing (and some accessories), where you create portions of the item (such as the sleeves) separately and then join them (to the body of a shirt, for example). There are many different methods of seaming crochet, each of which has its own purposes, and the more ways of joining that you know, the more versatile your project skills. This guide shows you several choices for seaming crochet including options for seaming with a tapestry needle and those for seaming using a crochet hook.
There are several stitches available for seaming crochet using a tapestry needle. You will want to use a blunt-tipped tapestry needle; a sharper tip is more likely to slip through the fibers of the yarn rather than through the loops where you want to work. Here are some of the most common options for seaming with a needle.
The Blushing Shells Cowl by Diane Moyer uses mattress stitch
This method of joining will connect two pieces of fabric at the underside so that the seam doesn't show on the right side.
Hold the two crochet pieces that you are joining together so that the right sides are facing each other, matching the stitches from one up with the stitches from the other.
If you hold the wrong sides together, the seam will show up on the front of the work instead. This is commonly called "Reverse Mattress Stitch". This can be an interesting detail as long as it is a choice and not a mistake!
Join yarn at one end where you want to create the seam.
Note: You will need to cut a length of yarn to use for the seam. A length approximately twice as long as the length of the seam is a good size to aim for.
Insert needle into the next loop. You will insert it from the back to the front, putting it into the loop that is furthest from you and drawing it through to the matching loop (right across from it) that is on the other motif closest to you.
Insert needle into the next loop. You will now insert it from the front of the motifs, through the loop closest to you, towards the back into the matching loop that is furthest from you.
Repeat across the entire seam.
Crochet Circles Throw by Leslie Stahlhut
You can vary the way that Mattress Stitch looks for seaming crochet by changing the loops that you work through. Typically, you work only through the outside loops of each motif. However, you can also opt to work through both loops of each motif; the latter option is often done when working Reverse Mattress Stitch.
The Crochet Circles Throw shown above uses this version of seaming. Keep it consistent across the seam but otherwise have fun trying different methods.
The Sunny Spread by Ellen Gormley uses whip stitch
Whip stitch is a similar method of joining to the mattress stitch. The difference is that you will always insert the needle from front to back, never working back to front. Hold the two crochet pieces that you are joining together so that the right sides are facing each other. Join yarn at one end where you want to create the seam.
Insert needle into the next loop. You will insert it from the back to the front, putting it into the loop that is furthest from you and drawing it through to the matching loop (right across from it) that is on the other motif closest to you. Again, you can work through one or both loops of the motif, although it is most common to work through the back loop only of each of the motifs.
Now you'll just repeat the previous step across the row.
You can gently pull the seam tighter to create a more invisible seam. You can make this adjustment several times throughout the seaming and also again at the end of the seam. Tug gently and evenly, not so much that the fabric scrunches together.
An alternative to sewing for seaming is to use crochet for seaming. There are plenty of options for seaming with crochet.
Slip Stitch Seaming for Crochet
This is basically the same concept as the methods for joining done with a tapestry needle except that you are using a crochet hook. It is a very strong seam that will hold your work together well but isn't bulky so that the work will typically lay flat.
Hold the two crochet pieces that you are joining together so that the right sides are facing each other (assuming you want the seam at the back of the work). Join yarn at one end where you want to create the seam.
Chain one.
* Insert your hook, front to back, through the next loop on the motif closest to you. Continue inserting the hook allthe way through the matching loop on the second motif.
Yarn over and pull all the way through. That's your first slip stitch.
Repeat from * to end of seam.
Slip stitch seaming is commonly used on the back side of the work where it is invisible. However, it can also be worked on the front side of the join, creating a surface slip stitch detail at the seam.
The single crochet seam adds some dimension to the work and is often used as a seam for joining motifs at the front where the seam itself is then a detail of the work.
Hold the two crochet pieces that you are joining together so that the wrong sides are facing each other (assuming you want the seam at the front of the work). Join yarn at one end where you want to create the seam. Chain one.
* Insert your hook, front to back, through the next loop on the motif closest to you. Continue inserting the hook all the way through the matching loop on the second motif. Yarn over and pull through first two loops. Yarn over and pull through second two loops. That's your first single crochet of the seam.
You can use a variety of different crochet stitches to create interesting textured seams, which will typically be something you'll do on the front of the work where the seam will be shown asa design detail. Hold the two pieces of crochet fabric with the wrong sides facing and work similar to single crochet seaming utilizing the stitch that you want.
Joined with double crochet.
Joined with seed stitch.
Joined with sc3tog.
It is easy to match up the stitches on two motifs that are the same design when you're working into basic stitches such as single or double crochet. However,it is also common to seam two pieces of fabric that aren't matching, or perhaps that do match but you're working into the sides of stitches. The basic concept is still the same. Choose the seaming method that you prefer, match up the fabric and work evenly into both pieces of fabric. A helpful tool for making sure that the pieces match up properly: seaming pins. These help you be sure before you begin that the pieces match up exactly. They also hold the pieces in place while you work so that the seam doesn't become wonky.
When working into the sides of stitches, work your needle or hook under just one strand of yarn on each piece of fabric. The height of the stitch determines how many stitches you'll need to place in it; one stitch into the sides of single crochet, two stitches into the sides of double crochet, for example.
Here are some additional tips that will be helpful when practicing seaming crochet.
Leave long tails on your crochet fabric. Then you can use the tails for seaming.
Use the same yarn for seaming as you did for the project. Using the same yarn in the same color is the best way to hide the seam. If you worked a crochet project with a very bulky yarn, you may want to join with a thinner yarn in the same color to reduce the bulk of the join. If you are crocheting on the visible side of the work and using the seam as a design detail then you may want to use a contrasting color for dramatic effect.
You can hold the motifs side by side. Most people find it comfortable to hold their pieces of fabric together (either right side or wrong side facing). However, some people find that they get flatter seaming when holding the motifs side-by-side. Once you've practiced a few times and understand where your hook or needle should go, you can "open" the two motifs up, hold them side by side and stitch up the seam this way. This video shows a great example.
Follow seaming instructions in your pattern. Most crochet patterns offer detailed seaming instructions from the designer with helpful tips. For a great example, check out the Xanadu Sweater by Marly Bird, where the instructions provide you with instructions about which parts to sew together first; this pattern also has a free video tutorial for seaming.
Block before seaming. Blocking each motif or piece of fabric before seaming will make the pieces flat and give them the right shape, allowing for easier and more accurate joining.
Try JAYGO crochet to avoid seaming altogether. If you are working with a motif based project and don't want to stitch everything together at the end then join-as-you-go crochet is the way to go.
Tassels are a fun way to decorate the end of a scarf or the edge of a blanket, and they are easier to make than you think! Follow our step-by-step instructions, or try our Red Heart Pom & Tassel Maker, and you'll have your own set in no time at all.
Materials
1 ball of yarn
1 object the size you want your tassel to be, such as a piece of cardboard, a book, or a DVD case
Scissors
Time
Directions
Gather your supplies. The size of the object you wrap your yarn around determines the size of your tassel. We used a book for ours.
Wrap your yarn evenly around your book. Keep the tension on the yarn even and don't let it get too loose. Keep wrapping until the tassel is the size you want and cut the yarn.
Cut 3 short pieces of yarn 4-6" long and slip one under one half of the wrapped yarn.
Knot the short piece of yarn securely and slide the tassel off of the book.
Wrap the second short piece around the entire tassel near the end where you tied the first piece. Knot it securely.
Cut the open loops at the end of the tassel and trim the ends.
Slip the final short piece of yarn through the top of the tassel and make a loop or use it to attach the tassel to something.
It's easier than you think to make pompoms! Find out how in this article, complete with step-by-step video. As a bonus, go here to see instructions from Handmade Charlotte on how to make a super big pompom in just one minute!
To make a pompom, you'll need the materials below. We used a Red Heart Pom & Tassel Maker. Watch the video for the full tutorial!
A pom pom maker
Many of the left-handed crafters who learned to crochet decades ago had to learn the craft "backwards" from their natural approach because they learned from a right-handed crocheter. Today, that's no longer necessary. There are teachers, tutorials, patterns, and more for the left-handed crocheter.
In this guide, you'll learn the basic stitches in left-handed crochet, tips for learning more, information on finding left-handed pattern sources, and guidance for adapting existing patterns to your left-handed crochet style. Are you a right-handed crocheter who wants to teach a leftie how to crochet? There's information on that in this guide, too!
Left-handed crochet is basically a mirror image of right-handed crochet. The left-handed crocheter holds the crochet hook in his or her left hand and the yarn in the right hand. Learning how to hold the hook (in either "pencil grip" or "knife grip") and manipulate the yarn is similar to learning as a right-handed crafter; follow your teachers and tutorials but also figure out what works best for you.
The majority of crochet tutorials, and nearly all crochet patterns and symbol charts, are written for right-handed crochet. In left-handed crochet, you follow the exact same instructions, but you work in the opposite direction.
This means that when you are working rows, row one will be worked into the foundation chain starting on the left side and working towards the right. This should feel fairly natural to you as a left-hander. It also means that when you are working in rounds, you will be crocheting clockwise, rather than the counter-clockwise way that righties are working.
Instructional photos by Rachel Lane of The Little Room of Rachell
In this guide, we'll learn how to crochet three basic stitches: chain, single crochet, and double crochet, using a left-handed technique. If you learn better from crochet videos, check out our Red Heart Basic Left-Handed Crochet Video.
Begin with a slip knot.
Yarn over. Note that every time you "yarn over" in your crochet work, you will be scooping the yarn clockwise with your hook to pick up the yarn.
Draw hook through the loop. You'll scoop the yarn clockwise here.
Repeat steps 2-3; each repetition is one chain.
Crochet a foundation chain of any length.
Insert hook into the second chain from hook. Your hook will be held in your left hand, the chain will be extended out to the right, and you will insert the hook into the second chain that is to the right of the hook.
This photo demonstrates how you'll go into the chain with your hook, so you have 2 stands on top of the hook and 1 below.
Draw through the loop. You will see two loops on your hook at the end of this step.
Draw through both loops on the hook. This is your first sc.
Insert hook into next chain and repeat steps 3-6.
Repeat step 7 across the row.
Insert hook into the fourth chain from hook. This is the fourth chain towards the right, working from left to right away from your hook.
Draw through the loop. You will see three loops on your hook at the end of this step.
Yarn over and draw through the first two of those three loops on the hook.
Yarn over and draw through the two loops now on the hook. You've completed your first double crochet.
Yarn over and insert the crochet hook into the next stitch then repeat steps 4-7 for the next stitch.
Repeat step 8 across the row.
Turn work. Chain 3 for turning chain.
Yarn over and insert hook into next stitch.
In the photo above, Rachel shows that you are crocheting your next stitch into the 3rd chain of the turning chain from the previous row. She explains, "This ensures stitch count remains correct and shape is not triangular; I made plenty of accidental 'bunting' when I was learning!" Repeat your dc stitches across the entire row.
This photo depicts the "wrong side" of double crochet stitch, as described below.
Leave your beginning yarn tail hanging at the start of each project (don't crochet over it); when a pattern mentions the "right side" or "wrong side" of the work, look for that tail as a cue. The "right side" will be when the tail is in the bottom right corner.
Remember that every time you yarn over, you are going to "scoop the yarn clockwise". Rachel says that she repeated this mantra to herself regularly when first learning to crochet.
Left-handed crochet is possible to do with both written patterns and visual ones. With charts and graphs, you can reverse the image (see below in the section on adapting existing patterns) and use the reversed image as your guide.
Learn Basic Left-Handed Crochet
Learn More Left-Handed Crochet Stitches
There are several crochet designers who offer free tutorials online for learning both right-handed and left-handed crochet.
For example, Tamara Kelly of Moogly offers a beginner's guide with videos for learning left-handed crochet; she also offers tutorials for both hands when she shares new stitch patterns on her website.
Donna Wolfe of Naztazia and The Crochet Crowd for left-Handed Crocheters all have videos available on YouTube
Kim Guzman's video tutorials on the CGOA website
PlanetJune's left-handed amigurumi basics
Additionally, many crochet magazines include both left-handed and right-handed crochet patterns in the learn-to-crochet resource guide that is typically found at the back of the magazine. Check your favorite crochet magazines to see if they include this.
Finally, there are so many great online resources where community members help each other out. There are Ravelry groups and Facebook groups for left-handed crocheters; you can join these to ask questions and share what you learn with others!
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