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Zippers Exposed!

sewing icon sewing
Zippers Exposed!

Have you noticed how often exposed zippers are showing up these days? Zippers are being installed with their teeth exposed in pockets, jackets, bags, sportswear–you name it.

A pocket with an exposed zipper on a jacket or bag is something you see frequently in ready-to-wear, but we often shy away from it when sewing. Adding this designer touch is not that difficult. Here are the easy steps:

Cut Pocket Lining fabric. Length: 2 times pocket depth +1 1/2″. Width: zipper length + 3″.

Step 1

Mark zipper opening on right side of garment, wrong side of lining. For an all-purpose zipper, opening will be 1/4″, for a jeans or sport zipper, 3/8 – 1/2″. On lining, center of zipper teeth should be 1″ from upper edge.

Zippers Exposed!

Step 2

Pin lining to garment, right sides together, matching the markings. Stitch around the opening. Slash through the center stopping 1/2″ from the ends. Clip into corners. Turn the lining to the inside and press.

Zippers Exposed!

Step 3

Center the closed zippper in the opening. Using a zipper foot, topstitch close to the edge around all sides.

Zippers Exposed!

Step 4

Fold the pocket lning up. Stitch the sides of the pocket with a narrow seam. Zig zag or overcast edges.

Zippers Exposed!

Step 5

Turn to the right side facing up. Fold the top above the zipper down, so that you see the narrow seam. Using a zipper foot, stitch across the top of the narrow seam.

Zippers Exposed!

You are done! Still feel a little nervous about trying it? Use this technique to add a pocket to the lining of a purse. It gives a very finished appearance and you can “test drive” the technique in an inconspicuous place.