Some Assembly Required

Project – Cable Car Coat
Patons Pattern Book #500872 Next Steps Six – Learn to Cable
Yarn – Patons Shetland Chunky in 03210 Rich Teal
Blogger – K1Paula2

Now that I've got all the main sections completed (yay!), I need to block the front panels, collar and cuffs and re-block the back (yes, the edges curled back in). That's because this pattern requires some assembly before I can pick up 190 stitches to work the lower edging. With one blocking board three large pieces to block, it may be a few days before the pieces are dry and ready to assemble.

After I pick up those 190 stitches, I'll need to pick up 130 along the right front and another 130 on the left front. The right side has button holes, which I'd imagine will make perfect spacing even more crucial.

Have I mentioned how much I dread picking up that many stitches? Picking up couple stitches here and there isn't so bad, but there's real planning and some actual math required to figure out how many stitches I'll need to pick up per inch so they're evenly spaced.

Anyone have tricks to share while I wait for the blocking to dry?



I use those safety pin like stitch markers and divide the sections up and determine how many stitches I need in each section. Slow and steady.

Good idea. Thanks!

Great tip! Thanks.

I can't believe how quickly you're getting this done! I made a scarf - a SCARF - in high school that took me years. You inspire me to try harder. :)

Oh Lori, you know how much a deadline can inspire one to get something done. Having to post regular updates would quickly encourage you to keep going.

Pat taught me the same way that yoelizbo suggested....fold the area (where the stitches will be picked up from) in half and place a marker. Then continue doing this to each side of the first marker until you feel comfortable with the amount of stitches. Good luck, that is not my strong point either!!

Since we both know Pat's a knitting genius, I guess it also means YoElizbo is, too! I should be working on the edging next time I see you, Jeanne, so I'll be anxious to see your reaction!

Hi Paula, when knitting the front and Panel C repeat 8 rows, and panel A repeat 36 rows I would end up at C 2nd row and A 36th row to complete the pattern. Do I then start over a C 3rd row and A 1st row or do I go to C 1st row and A 1st row? It is such a beautiful coat , I hope you will enjoy it for many years to come.

Hi Ev - here's how I handled the dueling cable patterns: Since Panel C has an 8-row repeat and Panel A has a 36-row repeat, I made an 8-line grid chart with however many columns fit. The third row of Panel C was the only one with a cable twist, the rest of C was stockinette, so I drew a line across the entire third row line, to remind me to cable stitches. When I completed each row, I wrote the row number in the box. When I got to 36, I started again with 1. That helped me track both panel patterns. (when a panel starts with a row other than row 1, I adjust accordingly. For example, if it's row 6 of Panel C, but row 20 of Panel A, I would write "20" in line 6 of the grid. Does that make sense?)